A new grammar of the Indian thali, one restaurant at a time

Young chefs are taking the most democratic plate in India and rewriting its rules.

In Delhi, the change was felt first by the people who track it for a living. For now, the people closest to it are reserving judgement.

The story, as ever, is in the distribution: who gains, who waits, and how long the advantage lasts once the initial momentum fades. That is the question this week leaves open.